Beauty of Joseon Glow Serum: Propolis + Niacinamide

What do propolis and niacinamide do for your skin?

This serum leans on two ingredients doing different jobs. Propolis is the lead, and the case for it rests on those flavonoids. A 2021 review of propolis flavonoids in Antioxidants traces most of its skin interest to their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity. The catch is that much of that work comes from lab and cell studies, with little of it done on human skin, and because propolis composition shifts with the bees’ local plants, one extract’s results don’t automatically carry to another. Propolis adds antioxidants and helps skin hold a little water. It is not a strong active ingredient.

Niacinamide is the second active, and the better-evidenced half. It’s a form of vitamin B3 that calms the look of redness, supports the skin’s moisture barrier and helps steady oil, which is the part most relevant to oil-prone skin. We go through the strength of that evidence, and the doses it was measured at, in our guide to niacinamide in Korean skincare. Here it’s enough to say the two ingredients pull in the same gentle direction: hydrate, calm, take the edge off shine.

What’s in it?

The brand publishes its own numbers: propolis extract at 60%, niacinamide at 2%. Both sit in a base of glycerin, butylene glycol and dipropylene glycol, with sodium hyaluronate lower down — humectants that pull water in, alongside propolis, which holds water too. The 2% niacinamide is enough to calm and steady oil over time, well short of a high-strength brightening treatment. There’s also 0.5% betaine salicylate, a mild BHA, which the front of the bottle doesn’t mention. No fragrance is added, but this is not a blank slate: propolis is itself a well-known contact allergen, and tea tree, neem and tamanu sit further down the list.

Past those the list runs long — around thirty entries, a dozen of them botanical extracts like turmeric, centella, holy basil and cocoa, sitting in the tail. The three that earn the price are the propolis, the niacinamide and that small amount of acid. None of it is a targeted treatment, so a routine still has room for a retinoid or a dedicated brightener to do the pointed work.

Texture and how to use it

Beauty of Joseon describes it as a thick, honey-like serum that absorbs without leaving stickiness. Two or three drops is the dose, patted on after toner and before moisturiser, morning and night.

Because propolis is a bee product, it’s worth a patch test before you commit it to your face. Bee-product allergies are uncommon but real, and a serum this propolis-heavy isn’t the one to skip that step on. Dab a little on the inner forearm for a couple of days first. The betaine salicylate is worth knowing about too. At 0.5% it is a low dose, but it is still a leave-on BHA: skin new to acids can go through a short adjustment spell, and daily sunscreen matters more with an exfoliating acid in the routine, not less.

Who’s it for — and who should skip it?

It suits oily and combination skin best. It also suits skin that looks dull or dehydrated, if you want hydration and some oil control in one step. If your main complaint is shine, tiredness or a rough-looking surface, this is the serum that fits. It sits alongside most routines, though stack it thoughtfully if you already use an acid.

Skip it, or pair it, if what you want is to fade old dark spots and even out tone. That’s the job of the Glow Deep Serum, built on rice and alpha-arbutin (a gentle brightening active), and our Glow Serum vs Glow Deep Serum comparison lays out which of the two belongs in your routine. Anyone with a known bee-product allergy should leave this one on the shelf.

Is it worth it?

For the price, it is a low-risk way to add hydration and help with shine. Niacinamide has good evidence behind it, and propolis is there to soothe. It’s not a treatment serum and won’t rescue a specific concern on its own, so judge it as the gentle everyday step it is. If your skin is oily or dull and you want one simple serum made to hydrate and calm it, this is a good choice. Just patch test the propolis first, and keep a targeted treatment on hand for anything this isn’t built to do.